After all the touring and struggling with English over the last ten days I was worn out and decided I needed a day off, so I told Ransom and our hosts that I wanted to see no one and just do what I wished on Friday. And that was a lot of hanging out and then Verdi's Aida at the Seoul Arts Center. It was remarkably easy to do and was a very enjoyable respite from socializing and conversation. Remember, I'm a cynic and a curmudgeon, so I need my alone time.
The good? The performance. Not great, but good. And good Verdi is better than most things, so I thoroughly enjoyed myself.
Saturday my host picked me up and brought his nephew with him to interpret. Ryan is 32, speaks quite good English and was thoroughly charming. The three of us had a great time together visiting the Korean Folk Village and then taking a Han River boat ride.
The bad? The traffic. 오 마이 갓! (OMG!) I heard a traffic report on the radio and when it was over I turned to Ryan and said "why didn't the announcer simply say 'traffic is terrible all over Seoul; take the subway!'?"
The amazing? Two things: first, on my way to the opera on Friday I stopped at the entrance to the subway to consult my map; within seconds a young man, maybe 17, stopped to ask "may I help you?" I told him what line I was looking for and he pointed the way. Then, when moments later I was struggling to remember the station I was going to -- you buy a ticket based on your stop -- another young man, this one only 12 maybe, asked if he could help me. Amazing. Can you imagine that happening in New York? Well yes, it does happen . . . as the helper's accomplice lifts your wallet.
And second, at some point Friday night I lost my glasses -- you remember, the new ones I just purchased last week here in Seoul? Today I was being fitted for a new suit and so I asked the tailor if he would be willing to phone the opera house for me and ask where I might go to see if they had turned up. He was glad to help, but the woman he spoke to said she would have to call him back. My new tailor friend grilled me on where else I might have lost them and decided to call the subway office as well; he had to leave and said he would do that later. The measurement was at 10 this morning. By 2pm he called to say there would be a fitting back at the hotel at 8pm! When he showed up he had my glasses with him. He had to go to the subway's lost and found -- at the end of the line I rode! And this is a man I just met! Amazing. Absolutely amazing.
This country, these people -- I am awestruck. Korea does not feel alien or intimidating at all. It feels warm, friendly and welcoming. I hereby retract my statement of June 9 when I said I couldn't imagine finding my way alone. I've done it; it was easy and the people are clearly willing to help. I love this country!
I'll use my friend Ryan here to represent all the smiling,
warm and friendly people I've met.
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